![]() ![]() Manufacturers will typically provide a matrix of form tap drill sizes based on the percentage of threads that are formed. With copper being the material for this application, the form tap will be much more forgiving than say, a stainless steel. Thread forming taps are generally harder for shade tree type guys to work with and are more likely to break during use.įor OP's circumstances cut threads are completely acceptable.įWIW tap drill sizes for the OP's application are as follows:įorm tap drill sizes will vary depending on the formability of the material. Thread forming taps require a slightly larger tap drill than a standard cutting tap to account for the fact that the threads are formed by deforming the material as opposed to removing (cutting) the material. Thread forming taps are typically used where very strong threads are required. I have linked an excellent overview of tap styles and when each style is appropriate to use. Chip direction (forward or reverse) is driven by the geometry at the tip of the tip. The number of flutes has zero impact on the direction the chips move. The one 3/8" hole drilled so far will be accepting a 3/8-16 bolt whose receptacle is the load/source side of a 500 amp Deltec shunt.Ĭlick to expand.Respectfully, this is not accurate information. The Brass bolt heads will not be easy to access, and I'd rather not even attempt to solder such a thick mass of copper to lock them in place I'd love to be able to bottom out the brass bolts, and then not have to worry about soldering them, or securing their heads so that I do not need to use two wrenches to tighten the ring terminals against the bar. So this 3/8" thick, 1 inch wide copper bar is overkill, which means its just about right. I am making my Own Bussbar, for 2/0 cable, which will rarely see a maximum sustained current of 240 amps. With No experience using thread forming taps, I am wondering if they pull themselves into the predrilled hole, or if they have to be lowered/ forced into the predrilled hole with precision I can never achieve by hand. Researching this, I ran across the recommendation to use thread forming taps rather than thread cutting taps. ![]() I've drilled and tapped copper before without a drill press, for 6mm metric thread ( nippondenso alternator + output stud), but was less than impressed with the results. an entire brand not at all known for do-overs of anything ever.I'm Looking to make 3/8-16 threads in a 3/8" thick chunk of copper, for some brass bolts to make my own upgrade proof busbar. Especially when it comes to Transformers. Haha this guy's logic and hilarious aversion to how basic consumerism works has had me laughing all morning. ![]() And why would anyone want a new version of something when a beaten to hell 40 year old throwaway versions already exists? It's just silliness! Because that's what people are perfectly fine with when they're spending money and/or adding to their collections: garbage. Like, yeah everyone and all your crazy high standards, as long as you don't give any shits about the figure you clearly want actually being in good or even presentable shape, having all the parts & accessories it normally comes with or might need, or can even transform anymore for that matter, pffft then just go grab one from eBay or a garage sale for pennies. Click to expand.I think out of all this guy's tantrum throwing slam-type shots at everyone, that quote was easily my favorite. ![]()
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